Steps: 35.334 (32,5km)
Temples: 13 + 14 + 15 + 16 + 17
Today I almost quit. Objectively speaking, we have had a great day, clear skies, almost no elevation, good companionship and now we’re at a hostel with a lovely owner. But I would honestly rather climb to temple 12 three days in a row than have to repeat the scene that played out this afternoon.
Okay so some background: Smaller Japanese hotels/hostels *do not* accept reservations online – in fact most of them don’t even have a website. In stead you have to call them up on the number listed in the guide book. And speak to them. In Japanese. Yikes.
Somehow we have gotten around this so far. One place had an email, another helped us make a call etc. But today our luck ran out.
And so, this afternoon at 16 o’clock, I found myself at a bench at temple 17, facing my worst fear of cold-calling someone and trying to communicate in toddler-level Japanese that we needed a place to stay for the night. And then, when that place told me no, I faced that fear again. And again. And again. With each no, I got more and more frantic, half crying as I dialed in the next number and then the next.
Finally, after what felt like an eternity, we got lucky. The gracious owner of guest house Ogaga agreed to let us come stay in the common room, and we had him help us book accommodation for the next three nights. Lesson learned, I’m done being the asshole that walks in too late without a reservation.
We bought him a beer and some snacks as a thank you.
He doesn’t drink beer.
There’s always a new way to make an ass of yourself in this country 💩
On a more positive note we did have a pretty cool experience today at temple 13. We were about to leave when suddenly we heard the click-clacking of roughly 30 pairs of getas as a large group of monks hastily entered the grounds, lined up in front of the main hall and started chanting.
Turns out they were on an expedition from mount Koyasan (the last stop of the pilgrimage) and were driving around to the different temple in two large, orange tour-busses.
Since the next 3 temples were so close together, we kept arriving simultaneously, and we were beyond impressed to see them navigate the steep steps and uneven terrain in what is essentially a double stiletto.
Thank you to all the sweet people who have given us osettai today. Thank you to Kobo Daishi for always giving us what we need, when we need it. And thank you to Jonasさん for putting up with all my mental breakdowns and assuring me (rightly so) that everything will be alright in the end
