Steps: 34.838 (31,0km)
Temples: (75) + 76 + 77 + 78 + 79
We went to bed early last night because we had to be up and ready for the temple’s morning prayer service at 6am.
All pilgrims who wish to can attend the morning service and this morning we were a small group of around ten people. We all sat on tatami mats facing the alter where the main priest and six monks took turns making announcements, chanting and reciting sutras for about 45 mins.
Obviously we understood very little of what was said, but it was very interesting to witness. Even if we found some of the rituals a little arbitrary, you can’t help but admire the discipline and skill it takes to learn it all by heart.
Around 7.00 we set out in the morning sun to visit temples 76 and 77 before a highly anticipated lunch date in Utazu.
Our Japanese teacher in Denmark, Manami-san, grew up in Utazu and today we made plans to meet up with her parents.
Yoshizumi-san and Hiroku-san live close by temple 78 and invited us to their favorite udon restaurant for lunch. And even though we have had udon here before, this place really made us understand why Manami-san says she misses the food from her home Prefecture!
It was honestly one of the most amazing bowls of noodles we have ever tasted – the perfect combination of salt, sweet and all kinds of umami. Absolutely bonkers.
Her parents, of course, were the sweetest people to ever exist. Her father picked us up from along the road (we’re not hard to spot I suspect 😅) and brought us back to their house, where we were given gifts, tea and homemade apple pie for the road.
Once again we left feeling overwhelmed with the kindness and hospitality of the Japanese people – encounters like these are what makes this trip so wonderful and special.
The last ten kilometers took us past temples 78 and 79, before ascending a hill to get to Kiyama Onsen where we are spending the night.
Temple 78 in particular was very beautiful, with a big flowering garden and an underground shrine full of golden statues dedicated to the goddess of grace.
A dip in the onsen did us both good – my right foot, which has been a little inflamed again lately, especially seemed to benefit from some cold water immersion.
Now it’s straight to bed so we can be ready to do it all over again tomorrow.
どもありがとうございました 🙏