Day 34: The Knowing Smile and the Forest Guardian

Steps: 27.478 (23,4km)

Temples: 40

This morning, cheered on by signs made by children in the local community, we climbed the 300m elevation separating Kochi from Ehime.

Once at the top, we had a quick breakfast with a last view of Kochi, before heading back down on the other side of the mountain.

Ehime is the … Read more

Day 32: Halfway There and Nowhere Near Done

Steps: 30.027 (27,4km)

Temples: 39

It is 9 in the evening and we are bathed, fed, and have a hotel booked for Tuesday (we try to book 3 days ahead, that seems to work for us).

I have picked up Jonas new shoes from the Lawson across the street, and almost made a young employee implode in the process, when … Read more

Day 31: Feet Down, Palms Up

Steps: 34.280 (32,6km)

Temples: None

Today was hard for Jonas. 32 kilometers with two giant blisters is no joke. After 10k he was just about ready to quit, and the remaining 20 was a sheer force of will.

Not all fun and games

I did my best to provide moral and nutritional support (I think we sat a new snack … Read more

Day 27: Lucky Bastards

Steps: 39.317 (38,1km)

Temples: 37

I decided to break in my new shoes today. I figured since the old pair I brought as a spare have lasted now for almost half the trip, a brand new pair ought to be able to do the rest. Also, 400 grams may not seem like much, but the load off from my backpack … Read more

Day 26: The Toughest Henrō on the Trail

Steps: 36.909 (33,9km)

Temples: None

Another day of sleeping in until 8, to let the worst of the rain fizzle out. On the way out the door we met the smallest henrō, eight-year-old Aita and his dad, who are doing the Kochi section together. Quite impressive for an eight-year-old, and even more so considering that his backpack-to-body ratio was roughly … Read more

Day 9: Hanami Heaven in Doll City

Steps: 20.518 (17,5km)

Temples: 19

They say you can’t buy happiness but this morning at temple 19 we decided to try anyway. Most temples sell an assortment of little charms and when we found some paper knots that promised happiness for the small price of only 200¥ we couldn’t resist.

It seemed to work because so far we have had … Read more