Day 59: The Final Mountain Stretch

Steps: 34,579 (32,6km)

Temples: 80 + 81 + 82

Alarm was set for 5am this morning- we had a train to catch at 6.10. Despite the ungodly hour, we still woke up a few minutes before the alarm – it appears our inner clocks are starting to get attuned to the rhythm of the sun.

Bandō station bathed in early
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Day 58: Coming Full Circle

Steps: 31.239 (27,2km)

Temples: 3 + 2 + 1

Today’s walk took us over the last prefectural border crossing of the pilgrimage. Osaka pass crosses from Kagawa and back into Tokushima, and is one of the most pleasant mountain trails we have walked – wide, well kept and with a slow and steady elevation throughout.

It didn’t hurt … Read more

Day 56: Towards Temple 88

Steps: 20.995 (16,0km)

Temples: 88

“お風呂どぞ” (“The bath is ready”). The inn keeper’s greeting, accompanied by a soft knock on our door.

Ahh! I’d been dreaming of hearing those words ever since we started today’s 774 meter climb to the top of Mount Nyotai.

Feet cold and bodies exhausted we happily slid into the steaming hot bath water.… Read more

Day 49: Entering Nirvana

Steps: 33.995 (26,3km)

Temples: 66 + 67

At 950 meters above sea level, temple 66 is the highest located of all the 88 temples on the pilgrimage.

Luckily, our wonderful inn-keeper had volunteered to drive us back to the trail head, which we passed by yesterday, saving us from 9 kilometers of backtracking.

Off to a good start thanks to
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Day 48: An Eighty Year Old Idol

Steps: 37.228 (32,4km)

Temples: 65

With a little help from google-sensei we found our way across (or more accurately below) the interstate this morning and back to the trail. First part of the day was a climb to temple 65, which lies roughly 300 meters above sea level.

On the way back down the mountain we met Koichi-san, … Read more

Day 45: Small Gods

Steps: 35.743 (29,0km)

Temples: 60 + 61

Right before coming here, Jonas read a book called Small Gods (one of the Discworld novels by Terry Pratchett) wherein it is explained that the minor deities (or “small gods”) loose their power, if people stop believing in them.

So naturally, whenever we walk by a small, seemingly forgotten deity deep in the … Read more

Day 42: A Fork in the Road

Steps: 34.982 (28,0km)

Temples: 44 + 45

Today we had breakfast at temple 44. It was early so we had the place to ourselves as we puttered around and lit the first incense sticks of the day.

The temple and its surroundings are impressive. In the main gate hangs the biggest pair of straw sandals you ever saw (which are … Read more

Day 35: Life is Goat

Steps: 35.162 (27,2km)

Temples: None

Just a quick picture update for today – a day consisting of walking 10k, grabbing a quick breakfast at a convenience store, climbing 500m of elevation (in less than an hour 💪), snapping a few shots at the top and tumblin’ back down again …

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Day 27: Lucky Bastards

Steps: 39.317 (38,1km)

Temples: 37

I decided to break in my new shoes today. I figured since the old pair I brought as a spare have lasted now for almost half the trip, a brand new pair ought to be able to do the rest. Also, 400 grams may not seem like much, but the load off from my backpack … Read more