Day 4: Learning to Walk and Other Lessons

Steps: 30.303 (24,2 km)

Temples: 4 + 5 + 6 + 7 + 8

Day four ironically started off with us not being able to find temple 4. Luckily our host had suggested we leave our backpacks and pick them back up when we came back to temple 5. As we passed by an old lady walking slowly up the hill I jokingly said, that she’d still for sure reach temple 88 before us. Fast forward 30 mins and we found ourselves on the wrong side of the mountain ridge. Always follow the old ladies… Including this little detour it ended up being 7km before we were back where we started at temple 5.

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After a much needed breakfast at fujimura bakery, we put our backpacks back on (which now felt incredibly heavy) and set course for temple number 6.

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By the time we reached temple 6, my right foot had been hurting for a couple of hours, sharp pangs of pain shooting out from the front foot with each step. This has been coming and going for months now, but it only seemed to be getting worse, until Jonas suggested I try relaxing my toes and rolling over the foot as I walked. That, in combination with a little moxa (a parting gift from my acupuncturist) and a rest at temple 6 seemed to loosen it up a little. Apparently you’re never too old to learn how to walk …

By the time we reached temple 7 morning seemed ages away, but we still had a long way to go if we were to reach temple 9 as planned. Looking at the map, however, we found the best course of action would be to stop by Okudaya henro house on the way to temple 8, leave our backpacks, check off temple 8 and leave temple 9 for tomorrow.

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At Okudaya house we met the owner Omoto-san and thank god (or Kobo Daishi rather) for that! He has been the most gracious host giving us discount tickets for the local onsen, taking us shopping for breakfast and helped us book accommodation for the next two nights where we will be going through areas with less access to lodging. Initially he didn’t even have room for us, but since we had sleeping bags he agreed to set us up on some simple beds.

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After seeing temple 8 and getting a scrub at the local onsen, we got lucky again though, as another guest cancelled, and we now have our own room with two futons that are calling to me rather loudly atm 😴

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