Day 8: Kōbō Daishi was a Feminist

Steps: 22.454 (18,5km)

Temples: 18

Today was a slow one. Mentally, physically we needed to chill so we spent most of the morning in Tokushima Central Park (where we saw a one-of-the-longest-of-its-kind-stone-slab-bridge!) before slowly venturing south along the highway towards temple 18.

Our feet were tired after two long days of walking so the pace was slower than usual, with many small stops along the way – the most important one being the second hand store where we bought some hats to save Jonas the trouble of lathering up his scalp in sunscreen every two hours…

Jonas the Monk using every opportunity to orange-up his wardrobe

It was way too late before I realized what an important day it is today – May 8th! International women’s day!

Kōbō Daishi hadn’t forgotten though, for it turned out that today’s temple – number 18 – had a very special story associated with it:

Originally this temple was off limits to women (nyonin kinsei); but, when Kūkai [Kōbō Daishi red.] was training here his mother, Tamayori Gozen, came to visit. She could not proceed past the gate, so Kūkai performed an esoteric rite for 17 days and was able to successfully stop the restriction and bring her on to the temple grounds.

– Shikoku Japan 88 Route Guide, 2023

I FaceTimed my mom from the temple. Both her and my dad were so happy to see us (and we to see them!). Later I got a lovely message from my sister, wishing us well.

After yesterday I have also gotten messages from many of my girlfriends back home, full of sympathy and encouragement. No judgement, just love ❤️

Thank you for all the beautiful women, sisters, mothers, friends in our life – feminism is alive and well just like it was 1200 years ago!

Two feminists hanging out at temple 18

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